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Last weekend, the Shopping Iguatemi and Komplexo Tempo locations were marked by the N54 edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW). Under the theme SPFW + IN-PACTOS, 48 Brazilian brands presented their new fashion concepts from November 16th to Sunday November 20th. Again as a ‘sequel’ to the post-pandemic context, the catwalks took place in a hybrid way. In addition to the fashion shows, Senac has held a series of masterclasses with fashion specialists such as Angela Brito And Dudu Bertolini and free lessons on topics such as Fashion and Activism, Trends and Journalism.
We had runway veterans, beloved SPFW brands like Bold Strap and the previews: Buzin, Greg Joey, Heloise Faria And Maurice Duarte. Until last year the event was for guests only, but this edition was the first time that tickets were on sale.
The fashion show that SPFW debuted was Patricia Vieira‘S. The brand has opened a store in Shopping Iguatemi with 80s-style pieces, reminiscent of clubs with a current atmosphere, betting on different metallic tones, mainly purple, green and silver. Glitter appeared in looks and makeup.
Furthermore, the designer is an environmental activist – she has used material provided by Leather workshopsa digital platform that facilitates access to traced, i.e. certified and low environmental impact leather.
A Brazilian brand that is always successful on social media after its fashion shows Meninos Rei. In this edition, the theme was Where art is born. The catwalk was opened with a concert by singer Psirico and was attended by celebrities such as Jojo Toddynho and Deborah Secco.
It is one of the brands that has a very well positioned identity on the market. If you’re a fashion enthusiast, it’s impossible not to recognize it Meninos Rei on the catwalk: the brand brings ancestry and Africanness roots as inspiration and is full of vibrant colors.
Puff sleeves, silhouette-defining fabrics, and a straight fit were the highlights. The brand also brings representation to its casting, with different body types, races, and even people with disabilities having their own space.
Renata Buzzo‘s bet is on the romantic aesthetic – which is, in reality, a trademark of the designer, who specializes in the reuse of fabrics and pieces.
In addition to the beautiful pieces, the brand needs to be highlighted for its awareness: Renata Buzzo is vegan and slow fashion, which means their products cause less damage to the environment. In general, in recent editions, but especially in this one, environmental activism has been on the agenda and extremely topical. But there is even more behind it: the profound theme used by the stylist, the fight against asylum and the diagnoses of madness, comes from her own story. She opted for light and pastel colors like off-white, blue and beige, as well as hospital ties.
Going to the other extreme, we have the show Walério Araujo. The designer presented a gothic imprint with almost all the pieces in black with some touches of purple.
The looks brought a lot of the 2010s with lots of brightness and even the skull and crosses print, which was a trend among Gen Z during their pre-teens. Furthermore, it had a lot of décolleté, sensuality and bare skin – the designer’s trademark – and featured feathers, velvet, overlays and lots of (A lot!) of glitter.
The catwalk featured rap singer Xamã, funk singer Valesca Popozuda, drag queen Hallessia and DJ Johnny Luxo.
Surprisingly, as always, Bold strap completely renews the collection, but always with its main feature: fetishism.
In this edition they have brought an alien world, but not the common sci-fi film, a totally cute imprint, bordering on the ridiculous. It’s worth mentioning that the hipster was in almost every piece, another brand he took inspiration from Y2K. Lots of body tint, plush, sheer, and vibrant makeup. In addition, the brand was attended by entrepreneur and influencer Bianca Andrade and model and actress Camila Queiroz.
Another brand full of representation is Greg Joeycreated by Luca Danuello. The name refers to the sender of the correspondence with a gay sex tape in the 1990s. The new Rippers Tour the collection brings references to cult horror films very lightly as in the pleated blue suit or in the matching t-shirt. Always in bright tones.
The stylist Heron Martinresponsible for the Mix show, sign the Gerimum collection, in reference to the fairytale pumpkin that turns into a carriage, according to the vocabulary of northeastern Brazil.
He used many references from the automotive world of the 70s and 90s. Earth tones and leather are the hallmarks of the collection. Celebrities in full force on the catwalk such as the presenter Giovanna Ewbank, the influencer Mari Gonzalez and the actors João Guilherme and Enzo Celulari. The highlight goes to the gallon bag of petrol, a reference to the high price of the product.
The Lilly Sarti group paraded with its new brand: discount, bringing a streetwear and urban imprint with an emphasis on overlays and a mix of different prints and colours. The brand had the collaboration of Jesuíta Barbosa, due to the actor’s hybrid DNA, and fashion influencer Jordanna Maia, targeting a young audience. One of the influencer’s requests was the composition of some looks with vinyl.
Lilly Sarti herself was not left out. His new summer collection, Desijois inspired by Azerbaijan et al Incas, playing with ancestry and futurism. Many metallic, sheer and beaded looks marked the runway, bringing a cool vintage edge. The color chart reinforces this ‘ancestry’ linked to nature, highlighting the variations of green, blue and earth tones.
fashion de pedro
Representing the northeastern Brazilian hinterland, we have the debut of Fashion of Pedro on the SPFW runways with the Contradiction collection. Inspired by the culture of his land, he wanted to show the strength of the Northeast and not just the need that is seen in other parts of the country.
Also, duality is very strong in his collection, good and evil. All the looks convey lightness and many overlaps, fringes and crochet have been used, highlighting the handwork.
an other place
An other place‘S Love Hurts the collection was inspired by the stages of love, from conquering and falling in love to breakup and loneliness.
Audiovisual content contributed to the three-part presentation. In the beginning, a lot of brightness, cleavage and transparency were used. Finally, the pieces had a destroyed imprint and the use of heavier materials such as leather, for the purpose of showing the wear and tear of the report.
The article above was edited by Mariana do Patrocinio.
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